Caring Guides 4 Your Exotic Pets

Please choose an animal to view caring guides for;

African Horned Viper - Boa Constrictor - Brown Water Snake - Californian King Snakes - Checkered Garter Snake - Chinese Garter Snake - Chinese Softshell Turtle - Coachwhip Snake - Common Blue Tongue Skink - Common Snapping turtle - Corn Snake - Corn Snake 2 - False Map Turtle - A Rough guide to Feeding - Golden Skink - Green Anaconda - Hibernation Conditions

African Horned Viper
(Cerastes cerastes)

Distribution
This species of Cerastes is found in Egypt, Libya, Tunisia, Algeria, Morocco, Mauritania, Mali, Niger,
Israel, Sudan, Oman and the South Western corner of Arabian Peninsula. There are currently 4 subspecies of Cerastes cerastes recognized and these are Cerastes cerastes cerastes, Cerastes cerastes karlhartli, Cerastes cerastes mutila and Cerastes cerastes hoofieni.
It is essential when thinking about maintaining this and any other species of snake to spend as much time with an experienced keeper as possible in order to learn the safe husbandry techniques/handling methods.

Size
These vipers usually reach sizes of up to 75cm (30 inches), but tend to average around 60cm (24 inches).

Diet
In the wild Cerastes will usually eat lizards and small rodents. In captivity appropriately sized rodents are sufficient.

Requirements

Heat Source: - This can be either reflector (spot) lights in green, blue or red, or ceramic bulbs. Although heat mats are a useful alternative. These should all be thermostatically controlled and guarded.
Ultra Violet Light Source: - Require a Reptisun 5.0 UVB lamp. This should be left on for 12 - 14 hours a day and positioned no more than 30cm away from the basking snake. This requires replacing every six months unless otherwise stated by the manufacturer. This will create a day and nighttime effect as well as give your snake sufficient levels of UV to allow vitamin D3 synthesis.
Thermostat: - An essential part of every vivarium and is required to control the heat inside the vivarium and to prevent your pet from becoming too hot or too cold.
Wire Mesh Guards: - These should be fitted over all heat sources used in order to prevent any thermal burns from occurring.
Thermometers: - One should be placed at either end of the vivarium. Never go by the temperature on the thermostat, as this is often inaccurate.
Hides: - These are essential to prevent stress and allow your pet to hide away from the outside world. Artificial plants, boxes, plant pots, caves etc. all make excellent hides. Whatever hides are chosen, ensure that they are easy enough to remove with the use of tongs to facilitate safe cleaning of the snake.
Housing - This should consist of a dark wooden Vivarium with glass frontage and adequate ventilation or vision cage. Hatchlings can be kept in a smaller container inside their future Vivarium. An adult snake can be housed in a locked Vivarium measuring 90cm by 45cm by 45cm (3’ by 45” by 45”). This should always remain locked.

Temperature
The daytime temperatures should be maintained with a basking area, which reaches 35C (95F), with a cooler end which drops to around 26C (80F). The night time temperatures should be allowed to drop to around 17C to 22C (64F and 72F).

Humidity and water
This species requires a low level of humidity. A shallow water bowl should be kept at the cool end of the Vivarium so that it does not raise the humidity too much.

Longevity
This species of snake can live up to around 17 years in captivity.

Substrate
Captive specimens should be maintained on a silica free, non abrasive sand (Such as calci sand and play sand). This should be maintained at a depth of around 10cm (4 inches) to facilitate burrowing.

NB – This species is venomous and a Dangerous Wild Animals License is currently required to maintain them within the UK. For more information on this you should contact the Environmental Health Officer at your local Council.

NB – Photograph taken by Stuart Dodsworth of The Reptile Trust.
A distribution map will follow as soon as one is located.

Recommended Reading/Useful Contacts

Exotic Animal Welfare Trust – peter@exoticanimals.fsnet.co.uk
Stuart Dodsworth – stuartandlynette@dodsworth2005.wanadoo.co.uk
The International Herpetological Society – www.international-herp-society.co.uk
The British Herpetological Society – www.thebhs.org
Taxonomy Information – http://srs.embl-heidelberg.de:8000/srs5bin/cgi-bin/wgetz?-e+[REPTILIA-Species:'Cerastes_SP_cerastes']
www.venombyte.com
Hot Herps Society – www.hotherps.com
www.venomweb.com
Local Environmental Health Officer at The Council

Boa Constrictor
(Boa constrictor spp)

Distribution
Widespread throughout the neo-tropics, Boa Constrictors range from Central Mexico through Central and South America as far as Argentina. A dwarf subspecies occurs on the Honduras which barely passes 3ft in length as an adult, so be sure of what subspecies you keep or see the adults of neonates where possible. There are currently 10 subspecies recognized Boa constrictor amarali, Boa constrictor constrictor, Boa constrictor imperator, Boa constrictor longicauda, Boa constrictor mexicana, Boa constrictor nebulosa, Boa constrictor occidentalis, Boa constrictor orophias, Boa constrictor ortonii and Boa constrictor sabogae. However, the majority of boas for sale in the UK have indistinct parentage.

Size
The average size of boas in captivity is 7-8ft for a female, with males being smaller. Occasional specimens over 10ft do occur but this is usually the result of excessive feeding. Dwarf specimens are available which rarely pass 3-4 feet, but you should check the parentage of the young and see the adults where possible.

Diet
Juvenile Boas should be fed pink mice, fuzzies and rat pups, it is best to vary the types of food fed early on in order to prevent the snake becoming addicted to one food type. As adults they should be fed large mice, rats, quail and part grown chickens. Rabbits and guinea pigs can be offered occasionally but should not be relied on as they have been linked to excessive growth and fatty livers. Guinea pig stomachs should also be cut prior to feeding in order to prevent digestive problems occurring. Adult boas are best fed on a separate feeding perch or box in order to prevent a feed induced bite when entering their enclosure.

Requirements

Heat Source: - This can be either a reflector (spot) light in green, blue or red. Ceramic or tubular heaters can also be used, although heat mats are also a useful extra source of heat. These should be guarded and thermostatically controlled.
UV Light Source: - Although there is a lot of controversy regarding the use of UV supplementation for snakes, many herpetologists wouldn't go without. It has therefore been included in this care sheet as a suggestion and the recommended type for snakes until further scientific research proves otherwise is a 2.0% UV light. This should be left on for 8 - 12 hours a day. Care should be taken however if your snake is albino as the light intensity could have detrimental effects on the eyes. Vitamin D3 supplements should also be kept to a minimum.
Housing: - This should consist of a dark wooden vivarium with a glass frontage and adequate ventilation. Hatchlings will require a small hatchling tub (a pen pal is suitable) which can be left within the larger vivarium. A pair of adult snakes can be housed quite happily within a vivarium measuring 180cm long by 90cm deep by 180cm high (6 feet by 3 feet by 6 feet). The vivarium should have securely hanging logs on which the Boa Constrictor may hang. Male and females should be housed separately as they are livebearers and will produce young and not just lay eggs like pythons.
Thermostat: - An essential part of any vivarium and is required to regulate the internal temperatures of the vivarium and to prevent your pet from becoming too hot or too cold.
Wire Mesh Guards: - These should be fitted over all heat sources used in order to prevent thermal burns.
Thermometers: - One should be placed at each end of the vivarium in order to give an accurate reading of the temperatures within the enclosure. Never go by the temperature on the thermostat as these are often inaccurate.
Hides: - These are essential to prevent stress and allow your pet to hide away from the outside world. Artificial plants, boxes, plant pots, caves etc. all make excellent hides. Upturned plastic dog baskets have also been used to good effect in the past.

Water
These animals require a container within which they can bathe without constriction. The water should be changed daily as it is also the water the animals drink.

Temperature
A basking temperature of 31°C to 33°C (88°F to 91°F) is required. A background temperature of 26C (78F) should be provided. At night the temperature may be allowed to drop to 27°C (80°F), although this is not recommended if your snake is suffering from any respiratory infections.

Humidity
This species requires moderate to high levels of humidity. A humidity box should be inside the Vivarium. This can contain sphagnum moss, which should be misted daily to keep it moist.

Longevity
Boa Constrictors have been known to reach ages in excess of 25 to 30 years, with some even exceeding this.

NB – This is potentially a large constrictor and a back up handler needs to be available with large specimens. As with all snakes this species should never be allowed to climb around your neck.

Substrate
This can be anything from newspaper, brown paper, bark mulch or even astro turf. If bark mulch is used then it should be checked that it is dust free and large pieces of mulch in order to prevent accidental ingestion during feeding. Whatever you use remember that it must be cleaned on a regular basis to prevent contamination from disease.

NB – Map taken from http://www.boa-constrictors.com/com/com.html Photograph taken by Stuart Dodsworth of The Reptile Trust.

Recommended Reading/Useful Contacts

Exotic Animal Welfare Trust – (07821) 386692 – peter@exoticanimals.fsnet.co.uk
Stuart Dodsworth – stuartandlynette@dodsworth2005.wanadoo.co.uk
The International Herpetological Society – www.international-herp-society.co.uk
The British Herpetological Society – www.thebhs.org
Taxonomy Information – http://srs.embl-heidelberg.de:8000/srs5bin/cgi-bin/wgetz?-e+[REPTILIA-Species:'Boa_SP_constrictor']
www.bigsnakes.co.uk
http://www.boa-constrictor-snakes.com/
http://www.boa-constrictors.com/com/com.html - Info on all subspecies of Boa Constrictor.

Brown Water Snake
(Nerodia taxispilota)

Distribution
The Brown Water Snake is native to a wide range of aquatic/semi-aquatic habitats throughout, Florida, South Eastern Alabama, South Carolina, West Virginia and Eastern North Carolina.

Size

This species of Water Snake tend to average between 70cm and 107cm (28” and 42.8”), although they have been recorded up to 173.75cm (69.5”).

Diet
In the Wild this species of water snake mainly feeds upon frogs and bottom dwelling fish, such as catfish. Therefore a varied diet must be provided in captivity, which should ideally include a large variety of fish, earthworms, and if possible rodents (Although many cannot be encouraged to feed on these). Care should be taken when defrosting fish to ensure that all Thiaminaise is destroyed from the food.

Requirements

Heat Source: - This can be either guarded and thermostatically controlled reflector (spot) lights in green, or red, or ceramic bulbs. Thermostatically controlled heat mats are a useful source of extra heat.
Ultra Violet Light Source: - If you choose to use a UV light with your snake, then one of the better varieties are the Reptisun 5.0 UVB lights. They should be positioned no more than 30 cm away from the basking snake. This should be left on for 10 - 12 hours a day and replaced every six months unless otherwise stated by the manufacturer. This will create a day and nighttime effect as well as give your reptile sufficient levels of UV to allow vitamin D3 synthesis.
Thermostat: - An essential part of every vivarium and is required to control the heat inside the vivarium and to prevent your pet from becoming too hot or too cold.
Wire Mesh Guards: - These should be fitted over all heat sources used in order to prevent any thermal burns from occurring.
Thermometers: - One should be placed at either end of the Vivarium. Never go by the temperature on the thermostat, as this is often inaccurate.
Hides: - These are essential to prevent stress and allow your pet to hide away from the outside world, because water snakes defecate readily, it s advisable to have easily disposable/cleanable hides in the enclosure such as cardboard tubes and plastic plants.
Housing - This should consist of a dark wooden Vivarium with glass frontage and adequate ventilation. A Vivarium measuring 90cm x 45cm by 45cm (3ft x 1½ft x 1½ft) is adequate for this species. Hatchlings can be kept in a smaller container inside their future Vivarium. Ensure you keep single sex pairs or solitary snakes unless you intend to breed as this species is live bearing.

Temperature
A localized hot spot that reaches 28 to 30 degrees Celsius should be provided. Cooler areas of the vivarium can be as low as 22 degrees Celsius.

Humidity and water
Although like its name suggests it lives in/near water predominantly, it should also be noted that the Brown Water Snake is prone to skin infections if it spends too long in the water and if dry basking areas are not provided. A large water bowl should be provided to allow soaking and drinking.

NB – Although some specimens of this species can become used to handling, they are not advisable as a first time snake as they can be aggressive and difficult to handle.
Longevity
This species of water snake can live up to around 10 years if the correct husbandry is followed.

Substrate
Due to the large amount of faeces produced by this species it is advisable to use Newspaper or chip shop paper for ease of cleaning.

NB – Photograph donated by Stuart Dodsworth of The Reptile Trust.
Map taken from http://nas.er.usgs.gov/queries/FactSheet.asp?SpeciesID=1196

Recommended Reading/Useful Contacts

Exotic Animal Welfare Trust – (07821) 386692 – peter@exoticanimals.fsnet.co.uk
Stuart Dodsworth – stuartandlynette@dodsworth2005.wanadoo.co.uk
The International Herpetological Society – www.international-herp-society.co.uk
The British Herpetological Society – www.thebhs.org
Taxonomy Information – http://srs.embl-heidelberg.de:8000/srs5bin/cgi-bin/wgetz?-e+[REPTILIA-Species:'Nerodia_SP_taxispilota']
www.petsnakes.co.uk
http://nas.er.usgs.gov/queries/FactSheet.asp?SpeciesID=1196

Californian King Snake
(Lampropeltis getula californiae)

Distribution
This species ranges throughout Oregon down to Southern Utah, Arizona Nevada, California and the Baja Peninsula of Mexico. Intergrades between the other subspecies occur where they meet in these areas. In the wild these kingsnakes occur in two main morphs these are Banded and Striped. In captivity a wide range of colour morphs and patterns have been bred but none are as beautiful as the wild forms.

Size
Hatchlings of this species usually start off around 17.5cm to 22.5cm (7 to 9”), before attaining an adult size of between 90cm and 150cm (3ft and 5ft).

Diet
Their diet consists of pink mice and fuzzies for hatchlings, although in the wild this would normally consist of frogs and small lizards. This sub-species of king snake is also famous for its habit of preying on Rattlesnakes in the wild. As the snake grows so will the size of prey size offered, from pink mice to eventually large mice and small rats. Adult snakes should be offered food every 7-10 days depending upon the amount of food given. This sub-species is also renowned for being a greedy feeder and obesity does occur so care should be taken not to over feed your snake.

Requirements

Heat Source: - This can be either reflector spotlights in green, red or blue, ceramic or tubular heaters. Heat mats are also a useful alternative. All heat sources should be thermostatically controlled and guarded.
UV Light Source: - There is a lot of controversy surrounding the use of UV lighting with snakes. I personally due to research so far prefer to use them with snakes (not ones with red or unpigmented eyes) as a greater appetite and breeding behaviour is noticed. The best sort to use is a Reptisun 5.0 and this should be positioned 30cm away from the snakes basking site and left on for 8-12 hours per day. This should be replaced every 6 months.
Housing: - This should consist of a dark wooden vivarium with glass frontage and adequate ventilation. Hatchlings would require a small hatchling tub (a pen pal is suitable) which can be housed within the larger vivarium. An adult snake can be housed quite happily within a vivarium measuring 90cm long by 45cm deep by 45cm high (36 inches by 18 inches by 18 inches). These snakes should never be housed in pairs as they are cannibalistic and will eat each other.
Thermostat: - An essential part of any vivarium and is required to regulate the internal temperatures of the vivarium and to prevent your pet from becoming too hot or too cold.
Wire Mesh Guards: - These should be fitted over all heat sources used in order to prevent thermal burns.
Thermometers: - One should be placed at each end of the vivarium in order to give an accurate reading of the temperatures within the enclosure. Never go by the temperature on the thermostat as these are often inaccurate.
Hides: - These are essential to prevent stress and allow your pet to hide away from the outside world. Artificial plants, boxes, plant pots, caves etc. all make excellent hides.

Water
These animals require a container within which they can bathe without constriction. This water should be changed daily as it is also the water, which they drink from.

Temperature
A background temperature of 25.5 - 26°C (76 - 78°F) is required. A basking area covering one third of the vivarium should be allowed to reach temperatures of 31°C (86°F). At night the temperature may be allowed to drop to 27°C (80°F), although this is not recommended if your snake is suffering from any respiratory infections.

Longevity
These snakes have been known to reach ages of around 15 years, although snakes living in excess of 20 years are not uncommon. One King Snake was even recorded at 33 years old.

Substrate
This can be anything from newspaper, brown paper or even astro turf. Whatever you use remember that it must be cleaned on a regular basis to prevent contamination from disease. Large pieces of (Dust free and not pine or cedar) Bark Mulch can be used to good effect as long as the pieces are too large to avoid ingestion during feeding or feed your snake in a separate feeding container.

Brumation
If you choose to brumate your snake a temperature of 12 - 17°C (52 - 62°F) for a period of 90 days would be satisfactory. Most people tend to do this around the end of October until the end of January. Water should always be available and no food should be given 2 weeks before the beginning of the brumation period. The temperature within the vivarium should be decreased in stages gradually. Brumation is not recommended if your snake is unwell in any way or has not eaten sufficiently during the year. It is also not recommended for hatchlings.

NB- Photograph taken by Stuart Dodsworth of The Reptile Trust.
Map taken from http://www.californiaherps.com/snakes/maps/lgcaliforniaemap.jpg

Recommended Reading/Useful Contacts

Checkered Garter Snake
(Thamnophis marcianus)

Distribution
This species of Garter Snake is originally from Texas mainly, with populations in smaller numbers in surrounding areas (Mexico, Belize, Honduras, Nicaragua, and Costa Rica). There are currently three subspecies that are recognized and these are Northern or Marcy’s Checkered Garter Snake (Thamnophis marcianus marcianus), Yucatan or Southern Checkered Garter Snake (Thamnophis marcianus praeocularis) and Checkered Garter Snake (Thamnophis marcianus bovalli).

Size
This species can reach lengths of up to around 107cm (43”) as adults.

Diet
Their main diet consists of earth worms, strips of garter grub, molluscs and fish for hatchlings. As the snake grows, so will the frequency and amount of food given as well as an increase in prey size. From pink mice to small mice, earthworms, fish, crickets, strips of raw beef and garter grub. It is very important that these particular snakes are given a varied diet in order to prevent nutritional disorders. If fish is used, it should be defrosted and then dunked in boiling water for 30 seconds to kill the thiaminaise and aid in the reduction of the risk of deficiencies occurring. Freshwater fish is best.

Requirements

Heat Source:- This can be either reflector spot lights in green, red or blue, ceramics or tubular heaters. Heat mats are also a useful alternative. All heat sources should be guarded and thermostatically controlled.
UV Light Source:-Although this is controversial I prefer to use a Reptisun 5.0 UVB light with this species as it aids in breeding and feeding success. This should be positioned no more than 30 cm away from the basking lizard and left on for 8 – 12 hours daily. This should be replaced every 6 months. Snakes with unpigmented eyes shoul not be exposed to UV lights as this can damage their eyes.
Housing:- This should consist of a dark wooden vivarium with glass frontage and adequate ventilation. Hatchlings would require a small hatchling tub (pen pal, geoflat or even a ventilated sandwich box) which can be housed in a heated vivarium. A pair of adult snakes can live quite happily in a vivarium measuring 60 cm long by 45cm deep by 45cm high (24 inches long by 18 inches deep and 18 inches high). If you do not want to breed from this species then it is best to keep single sex pairs, as they are live bearers.
Thermostat:- An essential part of any vivarium and is required to regulate the internal temperatures of the vivarium and to prevent your pet from becoming too hot or too cold.
Wire Mesh Guards:- These should be fitted over all heat sources used in order to prevent thermal burns.
Thermometers:- One should be placed at each end of the vivarium in order to give an accurate reading of the temperatures within the vivarium. Never go by the temperature on the thermostat as these are often inaccurate.
Hides:- These are essential to prevent stress and allow your pet to hide away from the outside world. Artificial plants, boxes, plant pots, caves etc. all make excellent hides.

Water
These animals require a water container which will allow them to bathe without constriction. This water should be changed daily as this is also the water they drink.

Temperature
A background temperature of 25.5 - 26°C (76 - 78°F) should be created with a basking area of one third of the vivarium reaching temperatures of 27 - 28°C (80 - 82°F). At night the temperature may be allowed to drop to 26°C (78°F) although this is not recommended if the snake is suffering any respiratory infections.

Longevity
This species may reach ages in excess of 10 years if cared for correctly.

Substrate
This can be anything from newspaper, chip shop paper. It is essential that this species has a dry basking area. Whatever you use remember that it must be cleaned on a regular basis to prevent contamination from disease. Dust Free (Not cedar or pine) bark mulch which is of too large a size to be ingested is excellent as it aids in maintaining the humidity.

Brumation
If you choose to brumate your snake a temperature of 12 - 17°C (52 - 62°F) for a period of 90 days would be satisfactory. Most people tend to do this around the end of October until the end of January. Water should always be available and no food should be given from 2 weeks before the beginning of the brumation period. Brumation is not recommended if your snake is unwell in any way or if your snake has not eaten sufficiently during the year. It is also not recommended for hatchlings.

Salmonella
Many reptiles carry the naturally forming bacteria Salmonella. It must be stated that salmonella bacteria can only be contracted by ingestion (via the mouth). Good hygiene is therefore very important when keeping any animal.

NB – photograph taken from http://www.gartersnake.co.uk/marcianus2.htm
A map will be added as soon as one is located.

Size
This species grows to on average between 50 and 70cm in total length, occasionally they can reach 90cm (3ft).

Diet
In the wild this species generally eats fish and amphibians. Some will feed on defrosted mice as captives, where as some will never adapt and eat a diet like garter snakes (Thamnophis sp.).
Their main diet consists of earth worms, mollusks, small rodents, fish crickets, strips of raw beef and garter grub. It is very important that these particular snakes are given a varied diet in order to prevent nutritional disorders. If fish is used, it should be defrosted and then dunked in boiling water for 30 seconds to kill the thiaminaise and aid in the reduction of the risk of deficiencies occurring. Freshwater fish is best.

Requirements

Heat Source - Guarded and thermostatically controlled reflector (spot) lights (in green, blue or red), or ceramic bulbs. Thermostatically controlled Heat mats are also a useful source of heat for this species.
Ultra Violet Light Source - If the keeper decides to use a UVB light, then one of the better brands is the Reptisun 5.0 UVB light. It should be positioned no more than 30cm away from the basking reptile. This should be left on for 10 - 12 hours a day and replaced every six months unless otherwise stated by the manufacturer. This will create a day and nighttime effect as well as give your reptile sufficient levels of UV to allow vitamin D3 synthesis.
Thermostat - An essential part of every vivarium and is required to control the heat inside the vivarium and to prevent your pet from becoming too hot or too cold.
Wire Mesh Guards: - These should be fitted over all heat sources used in order to prevent any thermal burns from occurring.
Thermometers - One should be placed at either end of the vivarium. Never go by the temperature on the thermostat, as this is often inaccurate.
Hides - These are essential to prevent stress and allow your pet to hide away from the outside world. Artificial plants, boxes, plant pots, caves etc. all make excellent hides.
Housing - This should consist of a dark wooden Vivarium with glass frontage and adequate ventilation. Hatchlings can be kept in a smaller container inside their future Vivarium. A Vivarium measuring at least 90cm, by 45cm by 45cm (3ft x 18” x 18”) is adequate for an adult pair of this species.

NB If you do not intend to breed then keep same sex pairs as this species has live young and does not lay eggs.

Temperature
A basking area, which ranges between 28 and 30 degrees Celsius, is required, with the cooler areas of the enclosure dropping to around 24 degrees Celsius.

Humidity and water
A large water bowl should be available to this species in order to facilitate bathing as well as drinking.

Longevity
This species should on average live for around 15 years if given the correct captive care.

Substrate
Newspaper or chip shop paper is one of the easiest substrates to maintain this species on. Bark Mulch (Dust free), that contains no pine or cedar is a useful alternative as a more aesthetically pleasing substrate, ensure that the pieces are too large to ingest during feeding or feed in a separate feeding box to avoid ingestion.

NB – The photograph was taken from http://www.ratsnakes.com/Erufodorsata.html
A map will be added as soon as one is located.

Further Contacts/websites/Reading
Exotic Animal Welfare Trust – (07821) 386692 – peter@exoticanimals.fsnet.co.uk
Stuart Dodsworth – stuartandlynette@dodsworth2005.wanadoo.co.uk
The International Herpetological Society – www.international-herp-society.co.uk
The British Herpetological Society – www.thebhs.org
Taxonomy Information – http://srs.embl-heidelberg.de:8000/srs5bin/cgi-bin/wgetz?-e+[REPTILIA-Species:'Elaphe_SP_rufodorsata']
http://www.ratsnakes.com/
Rat Snakes: A hobbyist’s Guide to Elaphe and Kin, By Stasko, R & Walls, J G (t. f. h. 1994 ) ISBN – 0-86622-635-4 - An excellent book on all rat snake species even if the taxonomy is outdated and it contains scale counts and distribution maps.

Chinese Soft Shelled Turtle
(Pelodiscus sinensis)

Distribution
This species of Soft Shell Turtle was formerly classified as Trionyx sinensis. This species of soft shelled turtle occurs in various water bodies in China, Korea, Vietnam, Taiwan and areas of Japan. Feral populations that have escaped/been introduced have been recorded in areas of Thailand, Hawaii and Florida. In the wild it is mainly crepuscular in habit, although in a captive environment they are usually more active during the day time. Many of these turtles were sold as decorative turtles to live in tropical fish tanks. Many of these turtles have now ended up in rescues after growing up and eating all of the fish. In Asia these turtles are farmed for their meat and shells.

Size
This species reaches sizes of up to 25cm (10 inches) in length. The females are larger than the males.

Diet
In the wild this species of turtle feeds on a wide variety of fresh fishes, crustaceans, insects and rodents. Therefore in captivity it is essential to feed a varied diet. For example youngsters can be fed waxworms, crickets, pink mice, prawns and pieces of fish. Adults however can eat crabsticks, prawns (With shells on), small rodents, crickets, waxworms, snails, trout, salmon, earthworms, etc. Although it aids in maintaining a cleaner environment for your turtle if you feed it in a separate feeding tank, if it is fed in its own tank then you can enrich the environment by hiding the food under stones and logs, to make it search for them. In order to further enrich the environment and add vitamins to the diet I have found that bobbing an apple or hard fruit on the waters surface can keep them occupied for hours, whilst providing invaluable exercise for their jaws.

Requirements

Heat Source: - For the water, a thermostatically controlled water heater will be required. This should be hidden and well guarded as these turtles will destroy the heaters if they can get to them. For the basking area, a guarded reflector (spot lamp) or ceramic heater will be required. This basking lamp should be turned off at night.
UV Light Source: - This species of turtle spends 90% of its time in the water, but they do occasionally come out to bask so it is best to provide a Reptisun 5.0 light. This should be positioned no more than 30cm away from the turtle when it is basking for optimum exposure. As this will provide a natural photoperiod and allow for the synthesis of D3. This should be left on for 8 to 12 hours a day and replaced every 6 months unless otherwise stated by the manufacturer.
Filtration: - This is important to reduce foul smells and to keep the water clean. Under gravel filters do not work very well for chelonians. You would be well advised to buy either a large internal filter or an external filter. Be warned if the filter is not secured well enough these turtles will pull them off their fittings and break them, hide wires well.
Land areas: - Two land areas should be available to your turtle. One area should be for basking and have a heat source above it and the UV light. The other area should be away from the heat source, to allow the turtle to regulate its body temperature. Underwater hides can be built under the land areas.
Housing – An enclosure measuring at least 150cm by 60cm by 45cm (5ft by 2ft by 18inches) should be provided to allow adequate swimming space. Three sides of the aquarium should be blacked out in order to prevent the turtle from becoming stressed. Indoor pools are also a good enclosure for this inquisitive species of turtle.

Substrate
This species of turtle is very shy and prefers to hide under aquatic hides or dig into a soft substrate underwater and leave just the nose exposed. Fine sand is the best substrate for this, as it does not cloud the water too much. It is not advised to use gravel, as it is too sharp and abrasive for this delicate turtle. Nesting areas should be provided for female turtles. These can be created out of Soil/sand mixes and should facilitate a nesting chamber at least 35cm deep. They are best positioned quite near to the basking area and are essential in order to prevent egg binding in the females.

Temperature
This turtle should have access to a basking area of 28 to 32C (82 to 89F); this should be turned off at night. The water temperature should be maintained at between 24 and 25C (75 and 77F).

Longevity
This species of turtle can live for 25 to 30 years.

NB – This species must be maintained separately unless an extremely large enclosure is provided due to their aggressive natures.
This species can give a nasty bite when provoked and is not recommended for anyone except experienced turtle keepers.

NB – Photograph taken by Stuart Dodsworth of The Reptile Trust.

Recommended Reading/Useful Contacts

Exotic Animal Welfare Trust – (07821) 386692 – peter@exoticanimals.fsnet.co.uk
Stuart Dodsworth – stuartandlynette@dodsworth2005.wanadoo.co.uk
The International Herpetological Society – www.international-herp-society.co.uk
The British Herpetological Society – www.thebhs.org
Taxonomy Information – http://srs.embl-heidelberg.de:8000/srs5bin/cgi-bin/wgetz?-e+[REPTILIA-Species:'Pelodiscus_SP_sinensis']
Tortoise Trust – www.tortoisetrust.org
BCG – British Chelonia Group – http://www.britishcheloniagroup.org.uk/

To read about how the turtle became naturalized outside its natural range view here
http://nas.er.usgs.gov/queries/FactSheet.asp?speciesID=1278
http://www.deancloseprep.gloucs.sch.uk/chelonia/care%20sheets/trionyx.htm
http://www.fsbio-hannover.de/oftheweek/71.htm

Coachwhip Snake
(Masticophis flagellum sp.)

Distribution
The Coach whip snake is quite a common snake in its natural habitat of woodland, rocky hillsides and sand dunes. It is reasonably common throughout the southern states of the USA and Mexico.
There are currently seven subspecies which are recognized and these are; Masticophis flagellum cingulum, Masticophis flagellum flagellum, Masticophis flagellum fuliginosus, Masticophis flagellum lineatulus, Masticophis flagellum piceus, Masticophis flagellum ruddocki and Masticophis flagellum testaceus.

Description
Coach whip snakes are extremely agile diurnal snakes. Coach whip snakes are so called because of the large scales on the long, slowly tapering tail, which give it the appearance of a braided bullwhip. This is a fast and active snake and should not be kept as a first time snake as some specimens (but not all) have aggressive temperaments.

Size
Adults of this species have been recorded up to 260cm (8.5ft) although the average adult size is between 90cm and 195cm (3 - 6.5ft).

Diet
In the wild this species preys on a wide variety of birds, lizards, rodents and snakes (including small rattlesnakes). It hunts its food with its head raised off the floor, following the scent into the prey's burrows. In captivity it should be fed appropriately sized rodents every 5 days as due to its activity levels it has a faster metabolism than some colubrids.

Requirements

Heat Source: - This can be reflector (spot) lights in green, blue or red. Ceramic heaters and heat mats can also be used, although whichever heat source you choose it should be guarded and thermostatically controlled.
Ultra Violet Light Source: - There is a lot of controversy regarding the use of UV lighting with snakes; many herpetologists wouldn't be without one. As more research is being carried out it is being shown that providing a UV light increases activity and the snake shows many behavioural and breeding behaviours than if UV was not supplied. Therefore I recommend that a Reptisun 5.0 UV light is used and positioned no more than 30cm away from the snake when it is basking for optimum exposure and left on for 8-12 hours per day. This should be changed every 6 months. Care should be taken if your snake is albino as the light intensity could have a detrimental effect on the snake's eyes. Vitamin D3 supplements should also be kept to a minimum.
Thermostat: - An essential part of every vivarium and is required to control the heat inside the vivarium and to prevent your pet from becoming too hot or too cold.
Housing: - This should consist of a dark wooden vivarium with glass frontage and adequate ventilation. An enclosure measuring 120cm by 60cm by 45cm (4ft x 2ft x 18 inches) is adequate for a pair of these snakes. Hatchlings would require a small hatchling tub (a pen pal is suitable) which should be left within a larger vivarium. Ensure that your snakes are of a similar size as they have been known to cannibalise. Ensure there are plenty of hides for the snake to conceal itself in if it wishes.
Wire Mesh Guards: - These should be fitted over all heat sources used in order to prevent any thermal burns from occurring.
Thermometers: - One should be placed at either end of the vivarium. Never go by the temperature on the thermostat as this is often incorrect.
Water: - Fresh water should always be available to your snake. A small water bowl is needed for this species.

Temperature
A basking temperature of 30°C (86°F) should be provided, allowing a 25 - 26°C (77 - 78°F) cool end.

Longevity
Captive coach whips have lived up to 16 years, however nothing is known on their longevity in the wild.

Substrate
This species of snake is best kept on either newspaper or chip shop paper. Due to its nervous nature it should be provided with numerous hides.

NB – Map taken from http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/gaston/Pests/reptiles/pages/ecoachwhip.htm
NB - Photograph taken by Stuart Dodsworth of The Exotic animal Welfare Trust.

Recommended Reading/Useful Contacts

Common Blue Tongue Skink - (Tiliqua scincoides)

Distribution
This species of Blue Tongued Skink occurs in Australia (New South Wales, North Territories, Queensland, South Eastern Australia, Victoria and North West Australia). They also occur in some areas of Indonesia. There are currently three subspecies which are recognized and these are; Tiliqua scincoides scincoides, Tiliqua scincoides intermedia and Tiliqua scincoides chimaerea.

Size
Blue Tongue Skinks will grow to a maximum length of 50cm (20 inches).

Diet
Their diet consists of insects, snails, pinkie mice, rat pups, mice, fuzzies, raw prawns (with the shells on), freshwater fish, eggs, pieces of chicken and a variety of fruit and vegetables. Require feeding 3 or 4 times a week, dependant on size of feeds. The food should be sprinkled with calcium powder prior to feeding and varied as much as possible. The vegetables should not be cooked prior to being offered a this cooks out the vitamins and minerals that are needed from them. Dog food should never be fed to this or any reptile as it can cause digestive problems later in life.

Requirements

Heat Source:- This should be a guarded reflector spot bulb (either red, green or blue) or a ceramic or tubular heater. Heat mats may also be used as an additional source of heat. All heat sources should be guarded and thermostatically controlled.
UV Light Source:- Require a Reptisun 5.0 UVB light. This should be left on for 8 to 12 hours a day and positioned no more than 30cm away from the basking reptile. It should be replaced every 6 months unless otherwise stated by the manufacturer. This will create a day and night time effect as well as give your pet sufficient levels of UV.
Housing:- This should consist of a dark wooden vivarium with glass frontage and adequate ventilation. A vivarium measuring 36 inches long by 18 inches deep would be sufficient for a pair of Skinks. Hatchlings should be kept in a smaller container which can be housed in their future vivarium.
Thermostat:- An essential part of any vivarium and is required to regulate the internal temperatures of the vivarium and to prevent your pet from becoming too hot or too cold.
Wire Mesh Guards:- These should be fitted over all heat sources used in order to prevent thermal burns.
Thermometers:- One should be placed at each end of the vivarium in order to give an accurate reading of the temperatures within the enclosure. Never go by the temperature on the thermostat as these are often inaccurate.
Hides:- These are essential to prevent stress and allow your pet to hide away from the outside world. boxes, plant pots, caves etc. all make excellent hides. Plastic plants should be avoided as they can be ingested and kill your skink.

Water
Water should always be available in a shallow bowl to enable the animal to use it when needed. A humid hide should also be available in order to aid ecdysis.

Temperature
A daytime temperature of 25 - 35°C should be provided. The temperature should be allowed to drop by up to 10°C at night.

Substrate
Newspaper or brown paper can be used. Large pieced (dust free and not cedar or pine) bark mulch is a good substrate to use for substrate as it aids in maintaining the humidity and facilitates digging behaviour. Which ever substrate you chose care should be taken when feeding your skink to ensure no substrate is ingested.

NB - Photograph donated by Paul Jobling of Gemini Signs
NB - Map taken from http://www.kingsnake.com/oz/lizards/skinks/tsscincoid.htm

Recommended Reading/Useful Contacts

Taxonomy Information – http://srs.embl-heidelberg.de:8000/srs5bin/cgi-bin/wgetz?-e+[REPTILIA-Species:'Tiliqua_SP_scincoides']

Common Snapping Turtle
**( Chelydra serpentine sp. )**

Distribution

Common Snapping Turtles are crepuscular/nocturnal Chelonia. Snappers range throughout the ponds, waterways, marshes and swamplands of Southern Canada through Central and Eastern USA . Common Snapping Turtles are hardy turtles which have been observed swimming under the ice in Northern most parts of their native range. This species turns up regularly in ponds and streams in the UK after being dumped. There are currently four subspecies recognized and these are the Common Snapping Turtle Common or Northern Snapping Turtle ( Chelydra serpentina serpentina ), the Florida Snapping Turtle ( Chelydra serpentina osceola ), the Yucatan/Mexican Snapping Turtle ( Chelydra serpentina rossignonii ) and The Ecuadorian Snapping Turtle ( Chelydra serpentina acutirostris ).

Size

Common Snappers can reach sizes of up to 50cm (20 inches), roughly the size of a dustbin lid.

Diet

When choosing their food try to avoid fatty foods, especially large quantities of red meat as this may cause digestive problems later in life. Snapping turtles should be fed a varied diet in order to maintain a healthy balance in their diet. The diet will vary with the size of the animal, from earthworms, crickets, locusts, wax worms and molluscs through to fish, small mammals and small birds. New research is showing that snappers do have quite a high herbivorous intake in the wild, so it is worth while offering them aquatic plants such as Canadian Pond Weed and other salad items such as water cress, Chinese leaves, and dandelions.

Requirements

• Heat Source: - For the water, a thermostatically controlled water heater will be required. This should be well guarded. For the basking area, a guarded (and thermostatically controlled) reflector (spot lamp) will be required. This basking lamp should be turned off at night.

• Ultra-violet Light – Although this species does not spend a lot of time on the land it is best to provide them with a Reptisun 5.0 for 10 to 12 hours per day. This should be positioned no more than 30cm away from the turtle as it basks and changed every 6 months. Power bulbs can be used in larger enclosures to good effect.

• Thermostat: - All heat sources should be thermostatically controlled in order to prevent the Snapper from becoming too hot or too cold.

• Filtration: - This is important to reduce foul smells and to keep the water clean. Under gravel filters do not work very well for snappers. You would be well advised to buy either a large internal filter or an external filter to help cope with the mess created by such creatures.

• Land areas: - Two land areas should be available to your Snapper. One area should be for basking and have a heat source above it. The other area should be away from the heat source, to allow the Snapper to escape from the heat source. Ideally if you have female snappers you should provide a damp soil/sand mix near (not under) the heat source in order to provide a nesting site. This will help to reduce the risk of egg retention occurring. They are chicken layers and may produce eggs even if they have never been mated.

• Housing: - Snappers grow extremely rapidly and will outgrow a small aquarium in next to no time. An aquarium of 180cm by 75cm by 60cm (72 inches by 30 inches by 24 inches) is adequate for an adult Common Snapper. Indoor pools are better facilities in order to maintain this species in as you can give more space and provide a more naturalistic environment for the turtle. These can be constructed in greenhouses, sheds, etc. This species should be housed singly and only attempted to be bred by experienced keepers.

• Hides: - Aquatic hides should be placed in the water, in order to reduce stress in the animals.

• Water: - These animals do not require vast amounts of water. The water should be of a depth of approximately twice the height of the animal or as a rough guide not much deeper than 10 to 15cm (4 to 6 inches).

Temperature

The water temperature should be in the region of 26 - 29.5°C (78 - 85°F) and should be maintained using a thermostatically controlled water heater. A basking area should be available with the temperature ranging from 28 - 31°C (82 - 86°F).

Longevity

Snappers have been known to live up to 60 years or more. Although this depends upon their husbandry.

N.B.

Snapping Turtles are highly aggressive animals and can give a painful bite if threatened. Snapping Turtles should be housed individually due to this aggressive temperament. Only minimal taming will occur with handling. These are definitely not suitable for a beginner.

Handling

Care should be taken when handling this species as it can reach its neck around almost two thirds of the body. It is best to pick the turtle up by the back of its shell. DO NOT pick the turtle up just by its tail as you will damage its spine.

Recommended Reading/Useful Contacts

Exotic Animal Welfare Trust – (07821) 386692 – peter@exoticanimals.fsnet.co.uk

Stuart Dodsworth – stuartandlynette@dodsworth2005.wanadoo.co.uk

The International Herpetological Society – www.international-herp-society.co.uk

The British Herpetological Society – www.thebhs.org

Taxonomy Information – http://srs.embl-heidelberg.de:8000/srs5bin/cgi-bin/wgetz?-e+[REPTILIA-Species:'Chelydra_SP_serpentina ']

www.chelydra.org – an excellent snapping turtle site.

Tortoise Trust – www.tortoisetrust.org

BCG – British Chelonia Group – http://www.britishcheloniagroup.org.uk/

Further information will be added as it becomes available, if you know of any other books/contacts or require further information then please do not hesitate to get in touch Stuartandlynette@dodsworth2005.wanadoo.co.uk

Corn or Red Rat Snakes
( Pantherophis guttatus ) – Formerly Elaphe guttata

Corn Snake Distribution Map

Distribution

The majority of the Corn Snakes originate from Southern New Jersey, through Florida , West to Central Louisiana and South western Tennessee . It is the most commonly kept and bred of all the Rat snake family and is bred in a large variety of colour forms. There are two recognized subspecies in the wild and these are the Southern Plains Rat Snake ( Pantherophis guttatus meahllmorum ) and the Corn Snake ( Pantherophis guttatus guttata ). The name corn snake comes not from the snakes habitat, but from its colour pattern which apparently resembles Indian Corn.

Size

Hatchlings begin at around 22.5cm to 35cm (9 to 14 inches) in length reaching around 60cm (2 feet) within the first 12 months of growth with the eventuality of becoming around 130cm (4.5ft”) in length. This is usually within 5 years. Some specimens exceed this length.

Diet

Their main diet consists of pink mice and fuzzies for hatchlings although in the wild their main diet would normally consist of frogs and small lizards. As the snake grows, so will the size of food offered, from pink mice to eventually small rats and extra large mice. This species is prone to obesity and care should be taken to ensure that it is not overfed.

It is important that these snakes are fed by using feeding tongs and not by hand.

Requirements

• Heat Source:- This can be either reflector spot lights in green, red or blue, ceramics, or thermostatically controlled heat mats. All heat sources should be controlled by a thermostat and guarded in order to prevent thermal burns from occurring.

• UV Light Source:-Although there is a lot of controversy regarding the use of UV supplementation with snakes, many herpetologists wouldn't be without one. It has therefore been included here as a suggestion and the recommended type for snakes until further scientific research proves otherwise is a 2.0% UVB. This should be left on for 8 to 12 hours a day and replaced every 6 months unless otherwise stated by the manufacturer. However, care should be taken if your snake is albino/amelanistic (or any other colour form that produces red eyed snakes) as the light intensity could have a detrimental effect on the snakes eyes. Vitamin D3 supplements should also be kept to a minimum.

• Housing:- This should consist of a vision cage, fibre glass enclosure or dark wooden vivarium with glass frontage and adequate ventilation. Juveniles would require a small hatchling tub (pen pal, geoflat or even a ventilated sandwich box) which can be housed in a heated vivarium. A pair of adult snakes can live quite happily in a vivarium measuring 90cm long by 45cm deep by 45cm high (36 inches by 18 inches by 18 inches.

• Thermostat:- An essential part of any vivarium and is required to regulate the internal temperatures of the vivarium and to prevent your pet from becoming too hot or too cold.

• Wire Mesh Guards:- These should be fitted over all heat sources used in order to prevent thermal burns.

• Thermometers:- One should be placed at each end of the vivarium in order to give an accurate reading of the temperatures within the vivarium. Never go by the temperature on the thermostat as these are often inaccurate.

• Hides:- These are essential to prevent stress and allow your pet to hide away from the outside world. Artificial plants, boxes, plant pots, caves etc. all make excellent hides.

Water

These animals require a water container which will allow them to bathe without constriction. This water should be changed daily as this is also the water they drink.

Temperature

A background temperature of 25 - 26°C (75 - 78°F) should be created with a basking area of one third of the vivarium reaching temperatures of 27 - 28°C (80 - 82°F). At night the temperature may be allowed to drop to 26°C (78°F) although this is not recommended if the snake is suffering any respiratory infections

Longevity

These animals have been known to reach ages of around 15 years although snakes living up to and in excess of 20 years are not uncommon.

Substrate

This can be anything from newspaper, brown paper or even astro turf. Whatever you use remember that it must be cleaned on a regular basis to prevent contamination from disease. Never feed your snake over substrate that could be ingested. Corn cob and wood chippings should not be used as substrate for this reason.

Brumation

If you choose to brumate your snake a temperature of 12 - 17°C (52 - 62°F) for a period of 90 days would be satisfactory. Most people tend to do this around the end of October until the end of January. Water should always be available and no food should be given from 2 weeks before the beginning of the brumation period. This is not recommended if your snake is unwell in any way or if your snake has not eaten sufficiently during the year. It is also not recommended for hatchlings.

NB –Distribution map taken from http://www.repvet.co.za/snakes_care_cornsnakes.htm

Photograph taken by Stuart Dodsworth of The Reptile Trust.

Recommended Reading/Useful Contacts

Exotic Animal Welfare Trust – (07821) 386692 – peter@exoticanimals.fsnet.co.uk

Stuart Dodsworth – stuartandlynette@dodsworth2005.wanadoo.co.uk

The International Herpetological Society – www.international-herp-society.co.uk

The British Herpetological Society – www.thebhs.org

Corn Snake Fan Club – http://www.csftp.co.uk/

Taxonomy Information – http://srs.embl-heidelberg.de:8000/srs5bin/cgi-bin/wgetz?-e+[REPTILIA-Species:'Elaphe_SP_guttata ']

http://www.cornsnakesuk.com

http://www.anapsid.org/corn.html

http://www.repvet.co.za/snakes_care_cornsnakes.htm

Rat Snakes: A hobbyist's Guide to Elaphe and Kin, By Stasko, R & Walls, J G (t. f. h. 1994 ) ISBN – 0-86622-635-4 - An excellent book on all rat snake species even if the taxonomy is outdated and it contains scale counts and distribution maps.

False Map (Saw Back) Turtle

( Graptemys pseudogeographica sp. )

Distribution

There are currently two sub species of False Map Turtle. These are the False Map Turtle ( Graptemys pseudogeographica pseudogeographica ) and the Mississippi Map Turtle ( Graptemys pseudogeographica kohni ). The Mississippi Map Turtle was only reclassified as a subspecies of the False Map turtle in 2000, it was formerly known as Graptemys kohni . This is still a controversial subspecies and many still say it should be returned to being a full species . The main habitat of the False Map Turtle is in large streams feeding into the Mississippi and Missouri rivers. They are mainly found in parts of the river system, which are rich in aquatic plant life.

Size

Male False Map Turtles usually reach sizes of between 7.5cm and 10cm (3 and 4 inches). Whereas the females usually reach almost double this size 10 to 19cm (4 to 7½ inches). Specimens larger than this do occasionally occur.

Diet

Adult Map Turtles are perfectly designed for crushing shellfish. The diet of the False Map Turtle depends on the age and the subspecies you own. Youngsters will eat small snails, drowning insects and mollusks. Where as adults will become more omnivorous and feed on the tender shoots of aquatic plants, roots, insect larvae and mollusks.

Captive Map Turtles can be fed a large variety of foods; including, cockles, baby African land snails, pieces of fish (freshwater is better), garden snails, Salmon, trout, earthworms, flies, spiders, crayfish, crabsticks, crickets, mealworms, wax worms, pinkies, egg shells, Canadian pond weed, broad leaf water cress, etc. To aid maintain a clean environment they can be fed in a separate feeding bowl and left for twenty minutes after feeding has been completed.

Requirements

Heat Source: - For the water, a thermostatically controlled water heater will be required. For the basking area, a guarded and thermostatically controlled reflector (spot lamp) will be required.

UV Light Source: - Map Turtles require a Reptisun 5.0 light. This should be left on for 12 to 14 hours a day and positioned no more than 30cm away from the basking turtle to ensure optimum exposure. This should be replaced every 6 months unless otherwise stated by the manufacturer.

Filtration: -You would be well advised to buy either a large internal filter or an external filter to help cope with the mess created by such creatures. The fluval filters are one of the better varieties.

Land areas: - Two land areas should be available to your turtles. One area should be for basking and have a heat source above it. The other area should be away from the heat source, to allow the turtle to regulate its body temperature. Underwater hides can be built under the land areas. The land area near the basking light should ideally have a sand/soil mix 30cm deep if female turtles are being maintained in order to facilitate egg laying.

Housing - For two adult Map Turtles a 120cm to 150cm (4-5 feet) tank would be sufficient. An indoor pond can also be a useful style of enclosure. Ensure a soft substrate such as sand is in the bottom of the water as they have been known to leap into the water so rapidly when disturbed that they kill themselves on the hard glas at the bottom of the tank.

Water

Map Turtles are extremely sensitive of water quality, so it is important to monitor ammonia and pH levels. An aquarium water testing kit is useful for this species.

Temperature

A basking area of 30C (86F) is required; this should be turned off on a night time. The water must be maintained at between 26 and 28C (78.8 and 82.4F).

Breeding

If you choose to breed your Map Turtles, then the females usually lay between 3 and 18 eggs. In 60 to 75 days the eggs will hatch if they are fertile. The eggs should be incubated at between 26 and 32C (78.8 and 91.4F). The temperature during incubation will influence the percentage of each sex, with more females hatching at the higher temperatures.

Longevity

False Map Turtles usually live for more than 15 years in captivity, although ages of 35 to 40 years are not uncommon.

NB – photograph taken by Stuart Dodsworth of The Reptile Trust.

Maps are available on the websites below of this turtles distribution,

Recommended Reading/Useful Contacts

Exotic Animal Welfare Trust – (07821) 386692 – peter@exoticanimals.fsnet.co.uk

Stuart Dodsworth – stuartandlynette@dodsworth2005.wanadoo.co.uk

The International Herpetological Society – www.international-herp-society.co.uk

The British Herpetological Society – www.thebhs.org

Taxonomy Information – http://srs.embl-heidelberg.de:8000/srs5bin/cgi-bin/wgetz?-e+[REPTILIA-Species:'Graptemys_SP_pseudogeographica ']

Tortoise Trust – www.tortoisetrust.org

BCG – British Chelonia Group – http://www.britishcheloniagroup.org.uk/

http://el.erdc.usace.army.mil/emrrp/turtles/species/false.html

http://herpcenter.ipfw.edu/index.htm?http://herpcenter.ipfw.edu/outreach/accounts/reptiles/turtles/Mississippi_Map_Turtle/&2 – Map present on this page for G. p. kohni

http://herpcenter.ipfw.edu/index.htm?http://herpcenter.ipfw.edu/outreach/accounts/reptiles/turtles/False_Map_Turtle/&2 - map present on this page for G. p. pseudogeographica

http://www.unc.edu/~dtkirkpa/stuff/maps.html

http://www.sdgfp.info/Wildlife/Diversity/Digest%20Articles/false_map.htm

http://www.austinsturtlepage.com/Care/cs-falmap.htm

http://yahooligans.yahoo.com/content/animals/species/4552.html

Feeding Snakes

There are two main aspects to feeding snakes, Defrosting the food and offering the food.

The best way to defrost food for your snake is to place it in a sealed Tupperware tub inside the fridge (overnight for large foods and for a couple of hours for small foods). The purpose of the Tupperware tub is to prevent contact with human food items and the reason it is in the fridge is because it defrosts the food at a safe temperature and slowly. Around twenty minutes before you are going to offer the food to your snake lift it out of the fridge and leave it at room temperature in the box. It is important to keep the handling of the food down to a minimum as the human scent on rodents can put some snakes off feeding.

Do NOT :

Defrost food in the Microwave – you are more likely to explode the food all over the microwave than defrost it, also snakes do not need their food cooking!
Defrost the food on radiators – this defrosts the food too fast and can lead to an increase in the amount of bacteria in the intestines of the snake (and has been known to kill snakes).
Defrost food in the sun – see above.
Defrost food in hot water – see above.

The best way to feed your snake is to pick the food up by the base of the tail with a set of tongs and hold the food about 3cm in front of the snake. Ideally feed your snakes in a separate feeding container, this will reduce the chance of substrate ingestion and fouling of the vivarium.

It is important that you do not;

Feed the snake when it is in slough or starting to slough. This can damage the new skin developing and if the snake does not feed can be quite stressful. Keep an eye out for the pre-shed blush/blue or opaque eyes.
If you are feeding guinea pigs or hamsters – ensure that the stomach is cut as they have thick skin and can cause stomach upsets.
Do not feed anything to your snakes that is wider than the widest part of the snakes body; this can lead to regurgitation and may put your snake off feeding.
Do not feed your snake with your hands, always use tongs. This will reduce the connection between feeding time and food and stop you being bitten by a badly aimed feeding strike.
Do not feed live prey; this is unnecessary stress on both the snake and the prey. Many a snake has been killed or seriously injured by a rodent defending itself.
Do not feed wild rodent. These may have been poisoned or may carry disease and a high parasite load.
Do not feed snakes together, as two snakes trying to eat the snake prey item may end up eating each other by accident and you may be bitten trying to separate them.
Avoid feeding on a substrate which may be ingested accidentally during feeding as this can cause a blockage in the digestive system.
If you are feeding bird prey then ensure that the feet and beak are removed, many snakes have had their mouths/oesophagus damaged by a sharp claw/beak.
For larger snakes, use captive farmed rabbits where possible, if wild rabbits are used ensure that they are not shot as this can give your snake lead poisoning and ensure that your snake is wormed regularly.
Also if rabbits are used try to vary the diet with rats/poultry as a staple diet of rabbits can lead to obese snakes.
Do not handle your snake for 24-48 hours after feeding as this may lead to regurgitation.
If your snake shows no interest in the food, then wiggle it a little; do not chase the snake around the enclosure as this will scare it off feeding still further.
If your snake refuses its food do not refreeze it, this can kill your snake.

If your snake refuses to feed, do not panic. Simply follow the checks below;

Ensure the temperature is correct.
Ensure the humidity is correct.
Check the mouth for signs of swelling.
Check the snake has not got pieces of old skin on its eyes or nose.
Check the snake is not in ecdysis (sloughing).
Make sure the food prey is not too big.
Check for parasites in the faeces.
Is your snake gravid?
Is it the time of year for the snake to stop feeding naturally?
Are you over handling it? (see separate sheet on handling)
Are you offering the correct prey species and colour for the snake?

Many snakes will fast for short periods of time naturally (especially Royal Python). If you are in any doubt then seek help/advise.

If your snake has not eaten for a prolonged time and is loosing weight then consult a veterinarian.

If you require any further help on this subject or feel I have missed something out then please email me stuartandlynette@dodsworth2005.wanadoo.co.uk

Golden Skink

( Eutropis multifasciata )

Distribution

This species of skink was reclassified last year (2004) from Mabuya multifaciata. It is also sometimes referred to as Common Sun Skink, Many Lined Sun Skink and the East Indian Brown Mabuya.

This skink is from semi arid areas of South East Asia.

There are currently two subspecies that are recognized and these are Mabuya multifasciata multifasciata and Mabuya multifasciata tjendikianensis.

Size

This species reaches sizes of between 17.5cm and 22.5cm (7” and 9”).

Diet

A totally insectivorous skink. Its captive diet should consist of bi-daily feeds comprising of a range of brown crickets, black crickets, wax worms, spiders, beetles and mealworms. These should all be dusted with a high quality calcium powder and gut loaded prior to feeding.

Requirements

• Heat Source: - This can be either guarded and thermostatically controlled reflector (spot) lights in green, blue or red, or ceramic bulbs. Themostatically controlled heat mats are a useful additional source of heat.

• Ultra Violet Light Source: - Require a Reptisun 5.0 UVB light. This should be left on for 12 to 14 hours a day and replaced every six months unless otherwise stated by the manufacturer and positioned no more than 30cm away from the basking lizard to optimize exposure.. This will create a day and nighttime effect as well as give your lizard sufficient levels of UV to allow vitamin D3 synthesis.

• Thermostat: - An essential part of every vivarium and is required to control the heat inside the vivarium and to prevent your pet from becoming too hot or too cold.

• Wire Mesh Guards: - These should be fitted over all heat sources used in order to prevent any thermal burns from occurring.

• Thermometers: - One should be placed at either end of the vivarium. Never go by the temperature on the thermostat, as this is often inaccurate.

• Hides: - These are essential to prevent stress and allow your pet to hide away from the outside world. Artificial plants, boxes, plant pots, caves etc. all make excellent hides.

• Housing - This should consist of a dark wooden Vivarium with glass frontage and adequate ventilation. A Vivarium measuring 60cm by 45cm by 30cm (2ft x 1½ft x 1ft). Hatchlings can be kept in a smaller container inside their future Vivarium.

Temperature

Day time temperatures should reach between 23.8 and 31C (75F to 88F). At night the temperature gradient may be allowed to drop to between 18.3C and 21C (65F to 70F).

Humidity and water

This species requires moderate levels of humidity. This can be accomplished by providing a humid hide for it and a shallow water bowl. Spraying the enclosure every two days with tepid water also aids in the maintaining of a moderate humidity.

Longevity

This species of Skink has been known to live up to 20 years of age in captivity.

Substrate

Calcium sand is an excellent substrate for this skink, it should be at least 6.25cm to 7.5cm (2½ to 3 inches) deep to facilitate the skinks burrowing. Another alternative which allows digging more is to use a sand/soil mixture as this will help to aid the shedding as well. (Dust free) Bark Mulch (not cedar or pine) is also a good substrate for this species as the pieces are usually too large for the lizard to accidentally ingest whilst feeding.

NB – photograph of a male taken by Stuart Dodsworth of The Reptile Trust.

A map will be added as soon as one is located.

Recommended Reading/Useful Contacts

Green Anaconda

( Eunectes murinus )

Distribution

This species of Anaconda is relatively common in South America . Specimens can have a varying temperament to say the least. They are more active during the night time.

Size

Neonates tend to be between 42.5cm and 60cm (17” and 2 feet) at birth. As adults the males rarely exceed 2.7m (9ft), with females often exceeding 4.8m+ (16ft+) in length. As adults they hold the record for the largest (Heaviest) snake in the world.

Diet

In the wild this species of boa feeds on a variety of prey, including; rodents, caiman, birds, iguanas, amphibians, and have been known to cannibalize if really hungry. In captivity a diet of appropriately sized rodents/rabbits/poultry will be fine. Whole (freshwater) fish can be given occasionally to add variety to the diet. Some specimens will only feed if they are in their water bath.

Requirements

• Heat Source: - This can be reflector (spot) lights in green, blue or red. Ceramic heaters can also be used. Thermostatically controlled heat mats are also a useful source of additional heat, although care should be taken as heat mats have also been linked to ventral scale problems with large boids.

• Ultra Violet Light Source: - Although there is a lot of controversy regarding the use of UV supplementation regarding snakes, many herpetologists wouldn't be without one. It has therefore been included in this care sheet as a suggestion and the recommended type for snakes until further scientific research proves otherwise is a 2.0% UV light, which should be left on for 8 - 12 hours a day. If you decide to use a UV with your snake, care should be taken if your snake is albino as the light intensity could have detrimental effects on the eyes of your snake. Vitamin D3 supplements should also be kept to a minimum.

• Thermostat: - An essential part of every vivarium and is required to control the heat inside the vivarium and to prevent your pet from becoming too hot or too cold.

• Housing: - This should consist of a dark wooden vivarium with a glass frontage and adequate ventilation or vision cage is best. Although if space allows it a converted room is also possible. The enclosure must measure at least ¾ of the total length of the snake and be at least as wide as a 1/3 of the snakes total body length.

• Wire Mesh Guards: - These should be fitted over all heat sources used in order to prevent any thermal burns from occurring.

• Thermometers: - One should be placed at either end of the vivarium. Never go by the temperature on the thermostat as this is often inaccurate.

• Hides: - These should always be provided to prevent the animals from becoming stressed and exposed. Large plastic dog kennels, hollow cork bark tubes, empty card board boxes and purpose built hides are perfect. If possible plastic plants over part of the water container will provide an aquatic hide and aid with problem feeders.

Temperature

The daytime temperatures should never be allowed to drop below 23.8°C (75F), so a background temperature of around 25°C (78°F) at the cool end is sufficient. A dry basking area must be provided this should reach temperatures of around 32°C (90°F). At night the temperatures may be allowed to drop to between 22 - 26°C (72 - 80°F).

Humidity

This species requires constant high levels of humidity therefore the vivarium should be misted every other day. A humid hide containing Sphagnum moss is also well worth having in an anacondas vivarium.

A large water bowl should be provided, preferably covering a third of the vivarium due to the aquatic nature of the species. The water should be changed daily. An eye should be kept on the temperature of the water as if the temperature drops too low it could lead to respiratory infections.

Substrate

This can be anything from newspaper, brown paper or even astro turf. Whatever you use, remember that it must be cleaned on a regular basis to prevent contamination from disease. Bark mulch/Peat are also good options, as it aids in maintaining the humidity. If bark is used a separate feeding box is essential to prevent ingestion of substrate during feeding.

NB-Due to the potentially large size and unpredictable nature of this species it is not advised to maintain this species, except for experienced herpetologists.

Map taken from http://bss.sfsu.edu/holzman/courses/Spring99Projects/snake.htm

Further reading/Useful Contacts/Websites

Exotic Animal Welfare Trust – (07821) 386692 – peter@exoticanimals.fsnet.co.uk

Stuart Dodsworth – stuartandlynette@dodsworth2005.wanadoo.co.uk

The International Herpetological Society – www.international-herp-society.co.uk

The British Herpetological Society – www.thebhs.org

www.bigsnakes.co.uk – a useful source of boid information.

http://bss.sfsu.edu/holzman/courses/Spring99Projects/snake.htm - Good Anaconda Information.

Taxonomy Information - http://srs.embl-heidelberg.de:8000/srs5bin/cgi-bin/wgetz?-e+[REPTILIA-Species:'Eunectes_SP_murinus ']

HIBERNATION CONDITIONS

The two biggest killers of captive tortoises are:

• Attempting to hibernate unfit specimens and

• Failure to provide adequate protection during hibernation.

Hopefully you have taken note of the advice given on fitness for hibernation and so will avoid this problem. Even fit tortoises can die in hibernation if the conditions to which they are subjected are biologically incorrect; essentially this means:

• · Keeping the tortoise dry and well insulated in properly prepared accommodation (unless otherwise noted for certain species).

• · Making absolutely certain that temperatures are stable, and within safe tolerances, i.e. neither too hot nor too cold.

In practice the first is more easily accomplished. We will deal with both accommodation and conditions separately, and in some detail.

ACCOMMODATION

Our recommendations are for an outer box or carton made from either wood or substantial cardboard. The inside of this should be lined with blocks or chippings of polystyrene, of the sort used in house insulation or packaging. Alternatively, tightly packed shredded paper can be used.

Select a second, (this time much smaller) box. Ideally this box should accommodate the tortoise fairly tightly, whilst still allowing for a couple of inches of insulating material all around the animal. We are sometimes asked why two individual boxes are necessary. To answer this question one has only to monitor carefully the behavior of a hibernating tortoise. A tortoise in hibernation does not stay in one place, but attempts to move, and it either digs deeper into its box, or climbs to the surface. If it is allowed unrestrained movement, there is a grave danger that it may burrow through the protective insulating layers and come into contact with the walls of the hibernation box. Here it is virtually unprotected, and could very easily freeze to death. Our sanctuary hospital is often full of frozen tortoises in the spring, due to precisely this error on the part of owners. It is all rather sad and unnecessary, as the problem is so easily avoided with a little care.

CONDITIONS

The critical factor here is TEMPERATURE. Temperature is absolutely critical to a successful and healthy hibernation. Insulation merely slows down the rate of heat exchange, it does not prevent it altogether. Thus, no matter how well you insulate, if you subject your tortoise's hibernation box to sub-zero temperatures for an extended period it will still get too cold. Similarly, if you allow your tortoise's hibernation box to get too warm for too long it will begin to use up valuable fat and energy reserves, and may even wake up early.

These critical temperatures are:

• MAXIMUM = 50 °F or l0 °C

• MINIMUM = 32 °F or 0 °C (Freezing Point)

- ALWAYS USE A THERMOMETER - IT SAVES LIVES!! -

Under no circumstances whatsoever should a hibernating tortoise be subjected to prolonged exposure to temperatures higher or lower than these. Failure to appreciate the importance of this invariably leads to death and injury in hibernation. Blindness due to the eyes quite literally freezing solid is a particularly unpleasant consequence of allowing temperatures to fall too low.

The easiest way to check temperatures is to obtain a maximum-minimum reading greenhouse thermometer from any garden or hardware store. Check it at regular intervals, hourly if necessary in very cold spells. If sustained low or high temperatures are noted, temporarily move the tortoises into a more suitable place until temperatures stabilize to a satisfactory level again. Today, some excellent electronic thermometers are available with built-in alarms if the temperature goes outside pre-set points. These are truly excellent, and can make a major contribution to hibernation safety.

An ideal temperature for hibernation is 5 °C, or 40 °F. At this temperature tortoises remain safely asleep, but are in no danger of freezing. Incidentally, it is important to point out that the advice that a hibernating tortoise should never be disturbed is completely invalid. It has absolutely no basis in biological or veterinary science, and should be ignored. You cannot possibly harm a hibernating tortoise simply by handling it.

We routinely handle our tortoises during hibernation to conduct checks on weight. Provided the animals are carefully replaced in their protective insulation, this is an excellent method of checking on their general condition. A tortoise which is losing weight to the extent that it is approaching the danger line should be taken out of hibernation and artificially sustained for the remainder of the winter. Most healthy adult tortoises lose about l% of their body weight each month in hibernation. This is very easy to calculate. A l600 g tortoise put into hibernation in October will lose about l6 g every month. After 5 months hibernation it will probably weight l600 minus 5 x l6 = 80, i.e. l520 g.

While tortoises must not be put into hibernation with a stomach containing food matter, their bladders should contain water. Therefore tortoises should be encouraged to drink before hibernation, even though they are not allowed to feed.

If, when checking a hibernating tortoise you notice that it has urinated, get it up immediately do not put it back. Recent evidence leads us to believe that should this occur, the animal is in grave danger of death from sudden, acute dehydration. If this action does occur, begin re-hydration immediately, and over-winter for the remaining hibernation period. We are undertaking further research into this phenomena, but early results indicate that the problem is most likely to occur towards the end of the hibernation period, or in spells of unusually mild weather where the temperature rises above 10 °C or 50 °F. Check the tortoise regularly at such times.

WAKING UP

As the average mean ambient temperature begins to approach the critical l0 °C or 50 °F point, a tortoise's metabolism will begin to reactivate in readiness for waking. Certain complex chemical and biological processes are initiated as the animal prepares to emerge into the spring sunshine. Upon first emerging from hibernation a tortoise is depleted in strength, has a low White Blood Cell (WBC) count, and is very vulnerable to infection. Unless it receives adequate quantities of heat and light it will simply 'not get going properly', and instead of starting to regain weight and strength lost during hibernation, may well refuse to eat, and begin to decline. This condition in its most serious form is known as POST HIBERNATION ANOREXIA, and has been the subject of some intense veterinary research over the past few years. How to deal with it is discussed in the next section. Hopefully you will have followed our previous instructions, and your tortoise will emerge in good condition. As the temperature rises listen carefully to the hibernating box - you should begin to hear the first sounds of movement.

At this point, rather than follow tradition and wait for your tortoise to emerge from its hibernating box itself, you should remove the hibernating box from its winter quarters and warm it up by placing it near a heater, and allow it to warm gradually. After a few hours remove the tortoise from its box and place it in a warm, bright environment. Repeat the pre-hibernation health checks, then offer the tortoise a drink as soon as it is fully awake. Provided the temperature is correct, this should only take a matter of an hour or two.

Many people experience problems in getting tortoises to drink - in fact almost all tortoises will drink provided water is offered in a suitable manner. We recommend placing the entire tortoise in a sink, bath tub, or large container suitable to the size of the tortoise, such as a cat litter pan filled with about l" of very slightly warm water - less in the case of very small tortoises, a little more for giant specimens. Simply offering a small dish of water to the tortoise is not likely to stimulate a good drinking response, but actually placing it in water is usually successful.

The importance of getting the tortoise to drink cannot be overstated. Indeed, this is essential as during hibernation the kidneys in particular accumulate large quantities of dangerous toxins. These must be 'flushed out' as quickly as possible, or the tortoise may begin to suffer from poisoning. It will certainly feel ill and remain disinclined to eat.

Drinking is, at this stage, far more important than feeding. Both dehydration and the presence in the body of toxins dictate that every effort must be made to encourage drinking first, feeding later. The tortoise must also be kept warm as described previously- it is absolutely vital that such temperatures are maintained in order to speed up activation of the tortoise's digestive system. As the tortoise awakes certain biological changes take place; one of the most important of these is the release into the bloodstream of a chemical called glycogen, which has been stored in the liver. This provides extra energy to give the tortoise an initial 'boost'. Feeding must take place before this is exhausted, or the animal will begin to decline. The glycogen level can be artificially boosted by providing water with glucose in solution daily - about 2 teaspoons per 250 ml dilution, at about l0-20 ml per day for an average sized animal. The use of Pedialyte™ is also successful. Do not continue this therapy indefinitely, or dangerously high blood-sugar levels may be attained.

All tortoises should very definitely feed within ONE WEEK of emerging from hibernation. If they do not there is either;

• A health problem, or

• A husbandry problem.

If your tortoise is not feeding by itself within one week of waking up, take the steps described in the next chapter, and if this does not produce results within a further three days, do not delay any longer - consult a veterinary surgeon who has particular experience of reptile husbandry, physiology and treatment. Seek the underlying cause of the problem, and do not be satisfied with non-specific 'vitamin injection' therapy. There is always a logical and very good reason for a tortoise persistently refusing to eat, and generalized vitamin deficiencies are highly unlikely to be responsible. Good diagnostic techniques, combined with an understanding of reptile metabolism and function, will invariably produce a satisfactory answer. Out of literally thousands of tortoises we have seen over the years with feeding problems, from ancient Galapagos giants to tiny newly hatched babies, we have never yet seen one suffering from anything which a general non-specific 'vitamin injection' would correct. It is highly unlikely, to say the least, that yours is the exception. Whatever you do, please do not delay. A tortoise which refuses to feed after a week or more of correct temperatures has a problem. It is your responsibility to find out what the problem is and to deal with it effectively.

Boa Constrictor
(Boa constrictor spp)

Size

Recommended Reading/Useful contacts

Chinese Garter Snake
(Oocatochus rufodorsatus)

Size
This species grows to on average between 50 and 70cm in total length, occasionally they can reach 90cm (3ft).

Common Snapping Turtle
**( Chelydra serpentine sp. )**

False Map (Saw Back) Turtle

Water

Breeding

Golden Skink

There are currently two subspecies that are recognized and these are Mabuya multifasciata multifasciata and Mabuya multifasciata tjendikianensis.

Size

Boa Constrictor (Boa constrictor spp)

Size

Recommended Reading/Useful contacts

Chinese Garter Snake (Oocatochus rufodorsatus)

Size This species grows to on average between 50 and 70cm in total length, occasionally they can reach 90cm (3ft).

Common Snapping Turtle ( Chelydra serpentine sp. )

False Map (Saw Back) Turtle

Water

Breeding

Golden Skink

There are currently two subspecies that are recognized and these are Mabuya multifasciata multifasciata and Mabuya multifasciata tjendikianensis.

Size

Boa Constrictor
(Boa constrictor spp)

Chinese Garter Snake
(Oocatochus rufodorsatus)

Size
This species grows to on average between 50 and 70cm in total length, occasionally they can reach 90cm (3ft).

Common Snapping Turtle
**( Chelydra serpentine sp. )**